”Perfumes and Their Preparation” by George William Askinson, first published in 1915, is a comprehensive guide that delves into the art and science of perfumery. The book begins by tracing the historical significance of perfumes, highlighting their use in ancient civilizations for religious rituals, personal adornment, and medicinal purposes. Askinson emphasizes the evolution of perfumery from its rudimentary beginnings to a refined craft, influenced by advancements in chemistry and the growing understanding of aromatic substances. He underscores the importance of both natural and synthetic ingredients, noting how the development of chemical processes has expanded the palette of scents available to perfumers.
In the subsequent sections, Askinson provides detailed insights into the various sources of aromatic substances, categorizing them into vegetable, animal, and chemical origins. He discusses the characteristics of essential oils derived from flowers, herbs, and spices, as well as the role of animal-derived substances like musk and ambergris in creating complex fragrances. The book also explores the methods of extracting these scents, including distillation, enfleurage, and solvent extraction, offering practical guidance on each technique. Askinson’s meticulous approach ensures that readers gain a thorough understanding of the processes involved in capturing and preserving the essence of various aromatic materials.
Beyond the technical aspects, the book delves into the economic and industrial dimensions of perfumery. Askinson highlights the significance of regions like Grasse in France, renowned for their extensive flower cultivation and perfume production. He presents data on the annual yields of various flowers and the corresponding economic impact, illustrating the scale and importance of the perfume industry in certain locales. The discussion extends to the cultivation of aromatic plants in other parts of the world, emphasizing the global nature of the trade and the potential for growth in regions with suitable climates and resources.
In the concluding chapters, Askinson addresses the formulation of perfumes, providing recipes and proportions for creating various scents. He discusses the blending of different aromatic compounds to achieve desired fragrances, considering factors like volatility, fixatives, and the harmony of scent profiles. The book serves as both a historical record and a practical manual, offering valuable knowledge for aspiring perfumers and enthusiasts alike. Askinson’s work stands as a testament to the intricate blend of art and science that defines the world of perfumery.