”Odorographia: A Natural History of Raw Materials and Drugs Used in the Perfume Industry” by John Charles Sawer is a comprehensive exploration of the botanical and chemical substances that form the foundation of perfumery. Published in 1892, this work serves as a valuable resource for growers, manufacturers, and consumers interested in the origins and applications of aromatic materials. Sawer’s meticulous research compiles information from various sources, including firsthand accounts from prominent perfume-plant cultivators and manufacturers in regions like Grasse, Nice, the Straits Settlements, and the West Indies. His aim was to consolidate scattered knowledge into a single, accessible volume, providing insights into the history, production, and use of various perfume ingredients.
The book delves into the characteristics of numerous aromatic substances, both animal and vegetable in origin. Sawer discusses the botanical aspects of these materials, detailing the specific plants and their native regions, as well as the methods employed to extract their essences. He also examines the chemical properties of these substances, offering insights into their compositions and how they contribute to the overall fragrance profiles. Additionally, the commercial value and applications of these materials are explored, highlighting their significance in the perfume industry.
“Odorographia” is organized into chapters that focus on specific scents and their sources, such as musk, rose, violet, and jasmine. Each section provides detailed information on the origin of the scent, the processes involved in its extraction, and its uses in perfumery. The book also discusses scents that resemble others, like perfumes similar to rose, and explores the nuances of various aromatic compounds. This structure allows readers to gain a comprehensive understanding of the diverse range of materials used in creating perfumes.
Sawer’s work stands as a testament to the rich history and complexity of the perfume industry. By compiling extensive information on the raw materials and drugs used in perfumery, “Odorographia” provides valuable insights into the art and science of fragrance creation. The book not only serves as a practical guide for those involved in the industry but also as a historical record of the knowledge and practices of the time. Its detailed exploration of aromatic substances continues to be a significant reference for anyone interested in the origins and development of perfumes.