Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets is a 1699 treatise by English writer John Evelyn that presents a compelling argument for the consumption of salads and a plant-based diet. Evelyn, a member of the Royal Society, intertwines his knowledge of horticulture, health, and philosophy to advocate for the moral and physical benefits of vegetarianism. Drawing inspiration from classical antiquity and French culinary practices, he emphasizes the importance of fresh vegetables, simple preparation, and balanced flavors. The work includes a catalog of 82 salad ingredients, detailing their growing seasons and preparation methods, along with a nine-step guide to salad-making that underscores the significance of ingredient quality, proper seasoning, and the use of appropriate utensils.
Evelyn’s treatise delves into the historical and medicinal aspects of vegetable consumption, referencing figures like the Greek physician Galen, who associated raw vegetables with balancing the body’s humors. He presents vegetarianism as a return to a more natural and pure state, akin to humanity’s prelapsarian harmony in the Garden of Eden. This perspective aligns with 17th-century intellectual trends that linked dietary choices to concepts of natural purity, health, and moral virtue. Evelyn’s approach to salad-making reflects ideas about balance, health, and refinement, viewing the careful selection and preparation of ingredients as a means of achieving harmony.
The book also addresses contemporary concerns about food purity and cultivation methods. Evelyn warns against artificial growing techniques, such as unseasonal planting or excessive fertilization, echoing modern apprehensions about pesticides and genetically modified crops. His emphasis on natural cultivation and seasonality underscores a broader 17th-century interest in horticulture and the pursuit of knowledge through the study of nature. Evelyn’s work reflects a holistic understanding of food, integrating culinary practices with scientific and philosophical insights.
Acetaria is often considered the first book on salads and stands as an early exploration of vegetarianism from both culinary and cultural perspectives. While it may have been overlooked in its time, the treatise has gained recognition for its insightful integration of dietary philosophy, horticultural knowledge, and culinary artistry. Evelyn’s work continues to resonate with contemporary discussions on healthy eating, sustainable agriculture, and the moral implications of dietary choices. Acetaria remains a testament to the enduring relevance of traditional wisdom in guiding modern practices.